“It’s one of the most heavily monumented Civil War parks in the country,” licensed tour guide Don Milner says about Vicksburg National Military Park. “There are over 1,500 monuments in this park. Many are small, rather modest monuments, and there are also a lot of big beautiful monuments.”
Only in Vicksburg, Miss., can you tour the largest outdoor gallery in the world, visit the state’s most haunted house, view six authentic Tiffany stained glass windows, and toast the sunset from a rooftop bar, all within a weekend.
There is no doubt about it: the city is fascinating. Its rich history draws you in, while its quaint downtown, outdoor opportunities and culinary experiences keep you interested.
As Karen “Ren” Moore, gallery assistant at The Attic Gallery, points out, “There’s definitely an energy in Vicksburg.”
President Lincoln referred to Vicksburg during the Civil War as the “key” given its location. Today, it’s known as the “Key to the South” ~ ready and waiting to be unlocked and experienced.
Unlock History
Undoubtedly, the best place to begin is the nearly 2,000-acre Vicksburg National Military Park. In addition to the monuments, there are trenches, cannons and stories galore to help you better understand the battle's importance and what life was like in the city during the Campaign and the Siege. The restored USS Cairo, the last remaining gunboat of its kind, is also located there, as is its museum, which houses recovered artifacts, and the Vicksburg National Cemetery, the second-largest national cemetery.
From there, head downtown to explore Vicksburg’s six museums, all within a four-block loop. Each one offers a unique perspective on Vicksburg and the South, and while there isn’t a specific one you should begin in, make sure you visit them all.
It all began with two pistols from a trade. Charles Pendleton wanted to know more about them, so he took the pistols to a gun show, which was a Civil War gun show. Long story short, he was excited to learn he did well in the trade. However, being at the show sparked a wild idea: to collect one of every gun used in the Civil War. As he “kind of started that rabbit hole,” Pendleton stumbled across a letter from the Fayette courthouse, about 50 miles from Vicksburg.
“It was over a little Negro girl, ‘Ella’ aged 7 years old, who was sold for $350 and guaranteed to be a slave for life."
I was so fascinated by that. I knew slavery existed, but I didn’t know about the inner workings. I never thought about a price on a person.
Pendleton bought the letters and started to take them to church. His pastor let me do a quick display, “but no one was really excited.”
The lukewarm reaction led him to think about establishing a museum.
“So, here I am.”
At Pendleton’s Vicksburg Civil War Museum, the experience begins with reading its mission and each Confederate state’s secession letters. As you walk around the museum, taking in the exhibits, be prepared to see a little of everything, from a slave cabin to uniforms to various artillery shells, cannonballs and much more.
Among the many stories the Old Court House Museum could tell includes being the site of where future Confederate President Jefferson Davis began his political career. In 1948, it became a museum, and besides its extensive collection of Civil War memorabilia, it also exhibits some fascinating pieces, such as the tie Jefferson Davis wore at his Confederate presidency’s inauguration, the trophy antlers from the Robert E. Lee Steamboat, and an egg that foretold the World War II Japanese surrender.
The Old Depot Museum offers railroad memorabilia, models of Civil War gunboats bearing Mississippi names, and an intricately detailed diorama of the Siege of Vicksburg.
The Jesse Brent Lower MS River Museum provides an in-depth look at the river and even has a towboat to explore.
The last two museums have more of a cultural bent: The Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum walks you through where and how Joseph Biedenharn first bottled Coca-Cola and be sure you can finish with a Coke float, while the Catfish Row Museum highlights the diversity of the city and those who contributed to making it was it is today.
“We call Inn at Cedar Grove the ‘crown jewel of Vicksburg’ mainly because the owner, John Alexander Kline, was a jeweler,” says Kendra Reed. “But it is also referred to as the ‘crown jewel’ because not only was it the biggest house to survive the Siege, it’s also where we (locals) come to get married to celebrate an anniversary or birthday. It’s the place. It belongs to Vicksburg.”
While giving a tour, Reed points to the National Historic Register sign and says the designation is not only for the mansion but also the gazebo (original), water fountains (originals), and the Native American mound.
“We aren’t sure if it’s a burial mound, a trading mound, or possibly both. However, Klein put a cistern in it to run the fountains off the water. Also, a cave was cut into the north side during the Siege for protection.”
The dwelling is best known for the Union cannonball still lodged in the parlor wall. It was a gift from an iron-clad gun metal boat, similar to The Cairo, positioned in the Mississippi River.
Like any good historic structure in Vicksburg, the Inn at Cedar Grove has its share of lore. Reed notes Grant Room’s name and points out that while there’s no proof or evidence of Grant sleeping here, there is a strong possibility. Klein’s wealthy and connected wife from Ohio had familial ties to William Temucah Sherman, Grant’s right-hand man. Now, Grant’s headquarters was located up the steep hill, and he loved his bourbon, so it made sense he might have slept off the spirit’s effects in the master suite.
An integral part of Vicksburg’s multi-dimensional past is tour homes. There are about a dozen of them, ranging from the McRaven House, also owned by Reed and her business partner, Harley Caldwell, called the “Time Capsule of the South,” representing three time periods and is complete with a cast of departed characters, to Anchuca Historic Mansion & Inn, home to the balcony where Jefferson Davis the public while visiting his brother in 1869 to the spacious 8,000 square foot Oak Hall with its 32 original stained glass windows.
And while it’s not a tour home, the Church of the Holy Trinity is worth booking a tour. Out of its 14 stained glass windows, six are authentic Tiffany stained glass, designed by Louis Tiffany. While that alone is fascinating, taking it a step further, there are an estimated 11 Tiffany stained glass windows in the state, making Vicksburg home to most of these specialized pieces.
Unlock Art
Standing in Mississippi artist H.C. Porter’s signature gallery, H.C. Porter Gallery, in downtown, her gallery director, Lydia Loggins, explains the artist’s process.
“All of her artwork starts with a photograph she takes herself. Then she silk screens it in high contrast black and white, and from there she brings back color to the environment of the image using acrylic paint and colored pencils.”
Loggins adds that Porter was inspired by Andy Warhol, who brought silkscreen to America in the 1960s. She incorporates her love of Warhol and his bright colors into her works.
Porter has been painting Mississippi for 30 years, and Point says, "she showcases Mississippi’s strength and grit that she grew up with and loves about the state she was born in.
I love her work for that."
Along with the paintings, prints and photography you’ll find inside the H.C. Porter Gallery are her two book projects, which are available for purchase: Backyards & Beyond, featuring 81 portraits depicting Coastal Mississippians surviving and thriving in the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. According to Loggins, Porter was at a show in Virginia and left the show to start on the project. Blues at Home highlights 31 Mississippi Blues artists with a photograph, a quote and artwork. It also features oral histories and the artists’ music. Blues at Home was the first traveling exhibit at the B.B. King in Indianola.
Also, downtown, you’ll discover The Attic Gallery. This funky shop, which has been going strong for 50 years, features Southern folk art, fine art, pottery, jewelry and more.
The Jackson Street Gallery at the Mulberry is a feast for the eyes, with over 200 pieces of original artwork from the state’s top artists.
Remember to check out Vicksburg’s retail scene, filled with boutiques, antique stores and shops, between visiting the galleries.
Of course, the city has murals, including the Riverfront Murals on floodwalls lining Levee Street. These murals interpret important moments throughout Vicksburg’s history through art.
Unlock Outdoors
“I fell in love with the nature, the beauty, the islands and the sand bars,” said Layne Logue about the Mississippi River.
“It’s a pristine migratory highway. It’s mostly deer camps, and there isn’t much human contact. It’s like a wildlife refuge that isn’t.”
About 14 years ago, when he began kayaking the river, he met up with John Rusky, who he refers to as “a Mississippi treasure, who started Quapaw Canoe Company in Clarksdale.
“I never camped out on the river or stuff like that until I found him.”
Now, as leader and river guide at Quapaw Canoe Company–Vicksburg Outpost, Logue has several long-distance expeditions under his belt and has paddled down to New Orleans with the big ships (“It’s wild, it’s different”) but prefers open skies and nature.
You can book day trips paddling the old Mississippi River channel, about 1.2 miles to the confluence of the river, where Logue says you can take in views of the 1930 Highway 80 bridge and the 1970 Interstate 20 bridge. Look upstream; the Delta Point Islands are on the other side of the channel. You’ll continue upstream (which he says isn’t as bad as it sounds) to the sandbars and learn all about the river - past, present and future.
Back on dry land, there are plenty of walking trails to explore. If you want something somewhat more strenuous, the trails at Vicksburg National Military Park are accessible to hikers and cyclists.
Unlock Culinary
You’ll eat well in Vicksburg; it’s impossible not to. Some of the tour homes are inns and offer breakfast. Of course, you can’t go wrong with a crepe or biscuit sandwich from the Bohemia Cafe and Bakery.
Lunch options include The Tomato Place, and while the term “interesting” is often thrown around, it definitely applies here. The farm stand serves smoothies, po’boys, hamburgers, plates, and signature tomato sandwiches. Do you fancy a fried green tomato burger or a classic tomato sandwich (think bread, tomato, salt and pepper)?
The fried chicken is the star at Walnut Hills Restaurant, but don’t overdo it. You will want a slice of pie, cake, or cheesecake, even if you have to take it with you.
Of course, Solly’s Tamales offers tamales, which you should try, as well as boudin links, burritos and “fiestas” served with chips and similar to a dip.
If you want to enjoy a drink or two while taking in the sunset, Vicksburg has two options. The 10 South Rooftop Bar & Grill is also a good place to enjoy dinner, whether sharing small plates or ordering an entrée. The Roof at 1311 is an open-air space above Key City Brewery, and you can kick back, take in the views, and listen to live music on certain nights. As for Key City Brewery, try craft beer (or two) over a pizza, small plates or a meal.
You must set aside a night for an elevated dinner experience at Restaurant Anchuca (Anchuca) or Chandelier Bar and Lounge (Inn at Cedar Grove).
Don’t Forget the Passport
The City Passport is blue and about the size of a passport. It provides descriptions and contact information for museums, tour homes, and other attractions around the city. Collect at least five stamps and redeem the book at the Vicksburg Visitors Information Center for a free #VisitVicksburg t-shirt.
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